Old House -- Stand Development softened the look. But it is interesting ...

#Kodak #ektachrome #E4 1977 vintage #Stand developed in #C22 #homebrew. Gnarly #BromideSlide at times. Stand process borrowed from C41 stand - Color Developer - 45 minutes w/initial 30 second agitation, stop 4 min, wash, potassium ferricyanide bleach - 45 minutes, wash 4 min, fix with ammonium thiosulfate fixer (Ilford Rapid 1+4) 8 minutes, wash 8 minutes, hang. This is a new 1970s Nikkor ai 35-105mm (possibly earlier converted). Love this lens it is NOT this soft. Softness is probable caused by C22 benzyl alcohol causing the colors to run, etc. C22 needs the BZA to access the color in the emulsion, supposedly but it drifts as it goes, so stand probably isn't the best way to go, unless the artistic effect is worth it. Or changing either the dilution of the developer or the BZA in the developer. Good news, moving the potassium alum and the sodium thiosulfate out of the stop and the fixer seems to have alleviated the deposits and streaks on the film... however this film REALLY needs a hardening bath.... thanks, hope this is interesting!

ช่างภาพ:
mike1allison
อัพโหลดแล้ว:
2020-05-30
แท็ก:
135 35mm BZA analog art benzyl alcohol bromideslide c-22 c22 color daylight daytime e-4 e4 ektachrome experimental expired filmisnotdead filmneverdied homebrew homeprocess kodak lomo lomography nikon old old school self self-developed stand test transportation urban vintage
กล้อง:
nikon f4s
ฟิล์ม:
Kodak Ektachrome Slide Duplicating Bulk Expired
Lens:
Nikkor 35-70mm f3.3-4.5 Ai-s
เมือง:
Uintah
ประเทศ/จังหวัด:
United States
อัลบั้ม:
C22 color stand development with E4 ektachrome

5 ความคิดเห็น

  1. charliedontsurf
    charliedontsurf ·

    How many stops in exposure are there between this and the next similar shot?

  2. mike1allison
    mike1allison ·

    @charliedontsurf They are the same basic negative. The other is most close to the shot which would have been ISO12 at f3.5 or so. They were scanned I believe at f1.8 ISO 320 for 1/2 a second. This one is me messing in the post process trying to get some depth back.......

  3. mike1allison
    mike1allison ·

    if that makes sense

  4. mike1allison
    mike1allison ·

    @charliedontsurf I'll post up the originals...

  5. charliedontsurf
    charliedontsurf ·

    @mike1allison mike there's a clue here: ' I scanned it at f 1.8/ iso320'. Stop the lens down to f8, Iso at 100, set the self timer to 2 or 3 seconds and step away from the camera if you don't do that already.
    The exposure will be longer but I guarantee that the scan will be sharper, also use focus peaking if you Nikon has that feature. I've scanned by accident with my micro nikkor wide open at f3.5 before and the results have been terrible, the difference between that and f8 is like night and day!

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